For years, collagen has been a prominent ingredient in the cosmetic industry. Recently, its use has expanded beyond anti-aging creams. Today, collagen isn’t only applied topically on the skin but is also available in oral supplements and subcutaneous treatments.
What’s collagen? Collagen is a protein, or rather, a family of proteins. It’s the most abundant protein in the human body, making up about 30% of the total protein content. It’s particularly concentrated in the skin, where 70 to 80% of the skin’s dry mass consists of these macromolecules.
There are approximately 28 types of collagen, with 90% of it being Type I. This type is crucial for structuring tissues such as skin, bones, and tendons. Other notable types, ranging from II to V, are found in various parts of the body, including cartilage, muscles, skin, and even the cornea of the eyes.
What does age have to do with collagen? Collagen provides flexibility to the human tissues, making it a key focus in the cosmetic industry. As people age, their bodies lose the ability to synthesize collagen, which contributes to a decrease in skin elasticity.
This loss affects the entire body, but one of the most noticeable consequences is the appearance of wrinkles. Besides aging, several other factors can limit the body’s ability to produce collagen naturally, including tobacco and alcohol consumption, a sedentary lifestyle, lack of sleep, and sun exposure.
In theory, supplementing our body’s collagen with an external source should help restore some flexibility. However, it’s not as straightforward as it appears.
From creams to injections. Collagen creams have long been a staple in cosmetics. However, belief in the effectiveness of applying collagen topically has diminished over time. The challenge lies in the fact that collagen primarily exists in the deeper layers of the skin, while topical applications often struggle to penetrate the outer layers. Since collagen proteins are relatively large, their absorption through the skin is limited.
One approach to address this issue is to break down collagen proteins into smaller peptides. While collagen is made up of long chains of amino acids, peptides consist of shorter segments comprising two or more amino acids. Unfortunately, studies have also shown that the topical application of collagen peptides doesn’t demonstrate significant effectiveness.
Another solution is injecting collagen directly into the areas where it’s needed. These injections are marketed as a “non-surgical facelift,” and trained professionals administer them to the face and certain scars. This method allows collagen to reach targeted areas and helps supplement the collagen our bodies naturally produce.
Beyond the skin. Collagen supplements have become increasingly popular, partly because they offer an alternative to the challenge of applying collagen directly to the skin. The human body can’t absorb collagen as we consume it because it breaks down during digestion. As such, most collagen supplements are made from peptides.
The idea behind collagen supplements is that they provide the body with the essential “building” blocks needed to produce collagen more efficiently on their own. While this can be beneficial, obtaining these peptides and amino acids through a balanced diet is generally easier.
Beyond cosmetics. Collagen’s applications extend beyond the cosmetic industry. It also has medical uses. For instance, collagen can help facilitate wound healing for both skin and gums.
Additionally, collagen is utilized in surgical prostheses, including vascular prostheses, and can serve to reconstruct arteries and other tissues.
Experts have also suggested collagen peptides as a potential treatment for osteoarthritis. However, the scientific evidence supporting this is currently quite limited.
Image | Alexandra Tran
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