In the world of haute cuisine, some dishes are accessible only to a select few. These “forbidden” delicacies are shrouded in mystery due to health concerns, cultural taboos, and their extravagant nature. Among them is the French horticultural delicacy ortolan, a tiny bird eaten in secret despite being outlawed under threat of fines and imprisonment.
Another exclusive recipe has recently reemerged on the menus of some of France’s most prestigious restaurants: canard à la presse, or pressed duck, a dish steeped in history, opulence, and ritual.
A dish, its history, and its ceremony. Unlike ortolan, which carries severe penalties for those who serve it, pressed duck is a celebrated symbol of French culinary tradition. Originating in Normandy, this dish represents the height of sophistication.
The preparation is its hallmark: a partially roasted duck is pressed in an ornate silver machine to extract its blood and juices, which are then emulsified into a rich sauce au sang (blood sauce). The sauce is prepared tableside by a maître d’, who serves it with the duck’s fillets. The roasted legs are served as a second course. More than a meal, canard à la presse is an elaborate performance—an embodiment of French haute cuisine that flourished in the 19th century.
The roots of pressed duck. Though the dish’s origins lie in the Norman countryside, it was elevated to an art form by establishments such as La Tour d’Argent in Paris. This historic restaurant, founded over 400 years ago, has made pressed duck its signature dish since the 19th century.
As recently highlighted by the BBC, the preparation of pressed duck at La Tour d’Argent is as much a spectacle as it is a culinary delight. From the blood extraction in a silver press to the flamboyant addition of Cognac and Madeira, the dish offers diners a front-row seat to the precision and mastery of French gastronomy.
A macabre yet ingenious evolution. The history of canard à la presse blends the macabre with culinary ingenuity. In the 17th century, hunters in Duclair prepared wild ducks by flambéing their hearts and livers with Calvados.
By the 19th century, chefs like Henri “Père” Denise popularized the dish, perfecting the pressing technique and using the renowned Duclair duck, prized for its tender meat and rich, red blood.
The recipe’s popularity waned in 2022 and 2023 due to an avian flu epidemic that devastated duck populations in France. With the return of a stable supply, however, pressed duck has reclaimed its place on menus at renowned restaurants like Café Victor Brasserie in Rouen and La Tour d’Argent in Paris.
A unique experience. Pressed duck is more than a recipe—it’s an immersion into centuries of culinary tradition. At La Tour d’Argent, each duck served since 1890 has been numbered, a practice that underscores the dish’s exclusivity and legacy.
To date, the restaurant has served more than 1.19 million ducks. Diners not only savor an exceptional dish but also receive a commemorative certificate to mark the occasion. This gesture encapsulates the heritage and exclusivity of a recipe that continues to intrigue and delight, despite its decidedly niche appeal.
Image | Fine Dining Guide
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