Miguel Jorge
WriterChina has been thriving in the so-called “gold rush” of the 21st century, a period reminiscent of the mining fever that gripped California in the mid-19th century. The country recently discovered one of the world’s largest deposits of gold. However, the nation’s treasure goes beyond pure gold and rare-earth elements. In fact, China even has “gold” in its trees.
Chenpi. Xinhui is a seemingly ordinary district in Jiangmen, a city in the Guangdong province in South China. However, it’s recently become the epicenter of a lucrative industry centered around a product that might not seem valuable at first glance: aged tangerine peels, known as chenpi. The production and trade of these old peels have transformed the local economy.
These peels are valued for their medicinal and culinary properties, and fetch astonishing prices–up to $9,650 for 500 grams. This reflects their status as a prized commodity in traditional Chinese medicine and luxury gastronomy for the elite.
Historical origins and benefits. CNN reported that the use of chenpi in traditional Chinese medicine dates back to the Song dynasty (1127-1279). Records highlight its properties in strengthening the spleen, improving digestion, and benefiting the respiratory system. Scientifically known as Citri Reticulatae Pericarpium, the peels contain antioxidants and flavonoids that may help stabilize blood pressure and prevent obesity.
The Xinhui region, situated at the confluence of the Xijiang and Tanjiang rivers, provides unique soil and water conditions that enhance the peels. This results in a higher micronutrient content compared to those cultivated in other areas. For the peels to be deemed authentic chenpi, they must undergo an annual sun-drying process for a minimum of three years and be properly stored during the remaining time.
Typology. There are four main types of chenpi, categorized by the time of harvest:
- Green tangerine peels, harvested before ripening
- Second red tangerine peels, harvested in November
- Large red tangerine peels, fully ripe in December
- Post-winter large red tangerine peels, harvested after winter, when tangerines have a higher sugar content
Industry boom and economic impact. In recent decades, the chenpi industry has driven unprecedented economic growth in the Xinhui region. The production of these unique sun-dried citrus peels has transformed the area into an economic powerhouse. The chenpi industry contributed around $3.2 billion in 2023 and accounted for a quarter of Jiangmen’s GDP.
Local entrepreneurs have played a crucial role in consolidating the industry. For instance, Zhou Zhiwei, who returned to Xinhui from Hong Kong in the 1990s, is now the vice president of the Xinhui Chenpi Industry Association. He manages around 163 tons of chenpi annually, helping to establish Xinhui as the world’s leading producer.
Revaluation of chenpi for the elite. Over time, this exquisite product has found its place in haute cuisine. Renowned chef Li Chi Wai of The Legacy House restaurant in Hong Kong has been promoting the use of chenpi in fine dining, exploring its potential beyond traditional medicinal applications.
Inspired by his childhood experiences in Xinhui, Li has created unique menus that showcase the diverse flavors of chenpi based on factors such as age, vintage, and origin, much like the appreciation for terroir in the wine industry.
Fancy dishes featuring the “golden” peels. In Li’s latest menu, diners can enjoy dishes like fish maw soup with lamb head and hoof made with over 50-year-old chenpi, “which has a deep agarwood taste.”
There’s also braised spotted grouper fillet paired with six-year-old peels that “retain more sweetness” thanks to a post-winter harvest. Another dish is lobster rolls wrapped in bamboo pith, accompanied by a 13-year-old peel, which has “a tinge of oyster flavor due to its location” in the riverside region of Meijiang.
Li wants to transform perceptions of chenpi by demonstrating how its initial, well-balanced bitterness evolves into a sweet and sophisticated flavor. “As an old Chinese saying goes, ‘bitterness and sweetness are one.’ Understanding the necessity of bitterness in life is important for one to truly appreciate and savor the sweetness,” the chef told CNN.
Innovation and future of chenpi. The chenpi production has evolved over time, with advancements in harvesting and storage techniques. Today, producers use both tangerine peels and pulp (previously discarded) to create health products and enzymes.
In Xinhui, initiatives like Chenpi Village, a cultural and tourist center dedicated to tangerine peel, reflect efforts to diversify the industry. The complex offers products such as ice cream, chenpi powder coffee, and culinary souvenirs, drawing in tourists and strengthening the region’s cultural identity. According to producer Zhou, Xinhui has successfully focused on advanced manufacturing and the diversification of chenpi products, ensuring the long-term sustainability of the sector.
The Chinese region has accomplished something remarkable: It’s transformed a humble ingredient, aged tangerine peel, into “gold” both in economic and cultural terms.
Image | Simon Law | Zhionghwaong Sham
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