The post-pandemic landscape has made one thing clear: As international travel returns to its pre-COVID-19 levels, major destinations like Spain and Japan are seeing record numbers of foreign visitors. However, it’s not always easy for cities to balance their role as tourist destinations with the needs of their residents. This tension has been felt in many European cities, such as Barcelona, Venice, and, more recently, Lisbon.
In the Portuguese capital, this delicate equilibrium is symbolized by its iconic yellow trams. They’re not only a popular tourist attraction but also serve as essential public transportation for the local population. Lately, however, the growing number of tourists has begun to overshadow their original purpose.
An Instagrammable landmark. In cities around the world, landmarks become symbols of the location, such as the Eiffel Tower and the Seine in Paris and the Big Ben and Hyde Park in London. In Lisbon, among many other attractions, the famous yellow trams with wooden floors and Belle Époque designs have become an icon of the city. Yet, especially on lines that pass through popular tourist spots–like the Tram 28 route–the trams struggle with their dual identity.
The tram is an essential part of Lisbon’s urban transport system, serving the residents of the Portuguese capital. However, over the years, as the city has become more popular on the international tourist map, the tram has also attracted thousands of tourists each year. Many visitors feel they can’t leave the city without taking photos of the iconic yellow streetcar for their Instagram or TikTok accounts.
“It’s not for us anymore.” Balancing the needs of both residents and tourists in Lisbon is challenging, and the locals are the first to acknowledge this. In October, AFP spoke with some residents of the Portuguese capital. The outlet reported their discomfort with how overcrowded the famous yellow trams can be, especially along the old city’s most iconic streets. “The tram? It’s not for us anymore, it’s reserved for tourists!” Luisa Costa, a 60-year-old resident of the hillside neighborhood of Mouraria, told AFP. Mouraria is located in the historic area, and it’s particularly popular with visitors.
Costa isn’t alone in her sentiments. Fatima Valente, an 82-year-old retiree, said the tram congestion keeps “getting worse.” Additionally, Carris, Lisbon’s transport company, acknowledges that coexistence can be difficult. The Tram 28 has become so favored by tourists that, in the mornings, lines at Praça Martim Moniz, the first stop of the route, can exceed an hour.
A Streetcar Named Devastation. Portuguese journalist Fernanda Cancio has been very vocal about the tram situation in Lisbon. In early October, she published a powerful column in Diário de Notícias, one of the nation’s oldest and most widely read newspapers, with the striking headline: “Un elétrico chamado devastação” (“A streetcar named devastation”).
In her article, Cancio, a resident of the old city, recalls that in the summer of 2018, locals were already calling for a “more dignified and more reliable” service for Tram 28. She adds that they were seeking solutions to balance its popularity among tourists with the needs of residents who rely on it for commuting to work or school.
Not merely a “toy.” Cancio says that trams have become a major symbol of the city’s “tourist overload,” functioning more as a “toy” for international visitors eager to showcase their vacations on Instagram while neglecting local residents who “really need” them.
“In addition to being the star of all the city tours, a charming Lego toy, and looking great on fridge magnets, the 28 is a means of transport with the added advantage of being beautiful and non-polluting. Or it was–until it became impossible,” Cancio says, according to an English translation provided by Google. She adds that now hundreds of tourists line up to board the tram, monopolizing all the seats “at the start of the journey.”
A complicated coexistence. Lisbon isn’t the only European city facing challenges in balancing the role of public transport as a service for both tourists and locals. Barcelona experienced a similar situation with the number 116 bus. It became so saturated with visitors heading to Park Güell, one of the Spanish city’s landmarks, that the bus route was removed from map apps.
The issue in Lisbon appears particularly severe. While there are red trams designed specifically for tourists, they’re more expensive to ride. Additionally, the city’s challenging terrain and the rising prominence of the charming yellow trams in travel guides make the red alternatives less popular.
Is it really that big of a deal? Beyond complaints from residents and public requests to the city council to address the issue, a couple of quick Google searches reveal the extent of the challenge. One one hand, online travel guides frequently highlight trams as an authentic way to explore Lisbon. On the other, there’s the phenomenon surrounding the popularity of the iconic yellow trams on social media platforms.
The flow of visitors has steadily increased over the past few years, with a brief hiatus due to the pandemic. In the summer of 2023, Portugal set a monthly record for foreign tourist visits, particularly with a strong influx of American, British, Spanish, and French travelers. By August of that year, Lisbon was poised to reach a historical figure of 19 million annual overnight stays, a 12% increase compared to 2019. This brought political attention to the debate surrounding “overtourism” and its impact on housing prices.
Image | Giuseppe Milo | Shadowgate
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